A Tiger In The Kitchen

786 Yassin Restaurant: "Drunk Food" To Remember

 

The moment I heard about 786 Yassin Restaurant, a place in Singapore that reputedly serves outstanding Indian mutton soup, I instantly begged to be taken.

When done well, soup kambing, as it's called, is a hefty flavor bomb that's hard to forget. It comes infused with coriander, cumin, cardamom, turmeric, nutmeg and star anise (among other spices) and dotted with crispy fried shallots and soft onion chunks.

This, no doubt, is the Chanel of soups.

When to have it, however, turned out to be something to consider.

"You can't have soup kambing now lah," said my friend Basil, who had told me about Yassin, prompting me to immediately suggest heading there for dinner. "It's mabuk food."

Ahh, drunk food -- the dishes that are the perfect panacea when you're leaving a bar at 2 a.m. and looking for something to quell your hunger and sober you up. In the case of soup kambing, this heady concoction of spices does an especially efficient job of clearing your head and helping you wade out of your Chivas fog.

I didn't want to have to get drunk in order to try Yassin's though. So after some persuading, we were on our way.  

Winging It: An Easy Chicken Stew

My mother will be the first to tell you that she is not a cook. 

(Even though she is. Sort of.)

In my family's Singapore home, however, it is our maid Erlinda who does the magic in the kitchen most days. Her dishes are typically simple, delicious and never fail to hit the spot.

Like many good home cooks, improvisation has been the mother of many of Erlinda's inventions. One of my favorite dishes is a super-easy chicken-wing stew that she first tossed together while thinking of the adobos she grew up eating in her hometown of Baguio in the Phillippines.

The stew she makes here, however, is quite different because my mother typically doesn't stock vinegar in her kitchen. Instead, dark, sweet soy sauce is the main ingredient -- but the result can be just as satisfying.

Chilled Soup: Those Healing Green Beans

The Chinese in Singapore are big believers in the healing properties of soups -- specifically, "heaty" and "cooling" soups, which either add fire to your body or cool it down, getting just the right balance of Yin and Yang. 

I know it's sacrilege to say this -- and I can already hear the clucking of my Mum and aunts who might actually read this -- but I don't give two hoots about heaty or cooling.

The most important question for me always is, "Does it taste good?"

And with green bean soup, the answer is: Yes, oh yes.

Despite my love for this sweet soup, I've never known how to make it. So, when my Let's Lunch friends, a group of intrepid cooks spread across two continents who've been staging virtual lunchdates, suggested that we make a chilled soup for our next meal, I jumped at the excuse to learn my mother's recipe.